Heat Demon

Confirm the kit is not grounded to the frame. If the kit is not grounded to the frame, disconnect the kit from the current power connection. Then connect the kit directly to the battery with the red controller wire to the positive battery lead and the black controller wire to the negative battery lead. Then turn the controller on and make sure that the LEDs light up properly.

To switch between the two or four individual zones, use the (Select) button. The LED above “GRIPS” will turn off, and the LED above “THUMB” will turn on. You can then adjust the heat level by pressing the (≈) button. Press the button 5 times for level 5, and once more to turn the grips off.

There is not a specific left and right side grip in the ATV heated grip kits. The two grips provided are the same. They can be installed on either side of the handlebar with wire exit facing towards the front of the ATV.

When Heat Demon converted the ATV heated grips to the current clamp-on style, the mounting hardware was also updated. A metal L-bracket is now used to mount to the ATV using an existing 6mm bolt. A longer bolt and spacer is included in the kit to be used if necessary.

If both heated grips are no longer heating up, this is most likely a switch issue. With a multimeter, check the connectivity between the middle and top pins on low and between the middle and bottom pins on high. If there is no connectivity, the switch needs to be replaced.

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The red wire for each heated grip is ground, the blue wire is low, and the white wire is high.

There is not a specific left and right side grip in the ATV heated grip kits. The two grips provided are the same. They can be installed on either side of the handlebar with wire exit facing towards the front of the ATV.

The drawing is correct. Both switches are transposed, so the top pin is connected for the low setting and the bottom pin is connected for the high setting.

If both heaters are no longer heating up, this is most likely a switch issue. With a multimeter, check the connectivity between the middle and top pins on low and between the middle and bottom pins on high. If there is no connectivity, the switch needs to be replaced.

The red wire for each heater is ground, the blue wire is low, and the white wire is high.

The drawing is correct. Both switches are transposed, so the top pin is connected for the low setting and the bottom pin is connected for the high setting.

Disconnect the controller from heaters, and connect it directly to the vehicle’s battery. Connect the white wire to the positive battery lead and the black wire to negative battery lead. Check the voltage out of the controller with a multimeter by connecting the positive lead to the white controller wire and the negative lead to the yellow controller wire. Then turn the controller on to make sure that the controller LEDs light up and can switch through the four levels. The controller’s voltage should increase from 5VDC on level 1 to 12VDC on level 4.

The controller is designed with the white controller wire acting as positive power both in and out of the circuit or “common”, the black controller wire is ground into the controller, and the yellow controller wire is ground out of the controller. If the heaters are heating up on their own, they are grounding to the handlebar. This completes the circuit, causing the heaters to draw power with the controller turned off.

Inspect all of the wires, specifically the yellow wire, to make sure they are not pinched, snagged, or grounding out on the handlebar.

If the kit was installed on a bike with electronic throttle and used the adhesive throttle-by-wire heater, remove the throttle sensor assembly and inspect the heater. Make sure that the heater was not damaged during installation.

Metal grips or grips that have air pockets do not let the heat transfer through the grips well. Remove the grips and make sure that the handlebar is heating up. It should be very hot to the touch. If the handlebar is very hot, the heaters are working properly and different grips will be required. All rubber grips are suggested for the best heat transfer.

Yes, but you must put heat shrink over the clutch-side handlebar before the clutch-side heater is installed. This process is also required for aftermarket aluminum throttle tubes.

Disconnect the controller from heaters, and connect it directly to the vehicle’s battery. Connect the white wire to the positive battery lead and the black wire to negative battery lead. Check the voltage out of the controller with a multimeter by connecting the positive lead to the white controller wire and the negative lead to the yellow controller wire. Then turn the controller on to make sure that the controller LEDs light up and can switch through the four levels. The controller’s voltage should increase from 5VDC on level 1 to 12VDC on level 4.

The controller is designed with the white controller wire acting as positive power both in and out of the circuit or “common”, the black controller wire is ground into the controller, and the yellow controller wire is ground out of the controller. If the heaters are heating up on their own, they are grounding to the handlebar. This completes the circuit, causing the heaters to draw power with the controller turned off.

Inspect all of the wires, specifically the yellow wire, to make sure they are not pinched, snagged, or grounding out on the handlebar.

If the kit was installed on a bike with electronic throttle and used the adhesive throttle-by-wire heater, remove the throttle sensor assembly and inspect the heater. Make sure that the heater was not damaged during installation.

Make sure there is connectivity across the thermal fuse that is glued inside of the left side heater. The thermal fuse has a red wire soldered into one side and a white wire soldered into the other side.

Check the red and yellow push pin connectors to make sure they are pushed in all the way with the wires inserted all the way into the connector.

Make sure that the kit is not grounded to the frame of the motorcycle.

Disconnect the red and black power wire from the current connection point. Connect the red and black power wire directly to the battery of the vehicle, red to the positive battery lead, and black to the negative battery lead.

Yes, but you must put heat shrink over the clutch-side handlebar before the clutch-side heater is installed. This process is also required for aftermarket aluminum throttle tubes.

If both heaters are no longer heating up, this is most likely a switch issue. With a multimeter, check the connectivity between the middle and top pins on low and between the middle and bottom pins on high. If there is no connectivity, the switch needs to be replaced.

The red wire for each heater is ground, the blue wire is low, and the white wire is high.

The drawing is correct. Both switches are transposed, so the top pin is connected for the low setting and the bottom pin is connected for the high setting.

Check the voltage being sent to the seat heater. This can be done with a multimeter at the pin and the barrel connector from the switch. For the multimeter, the pin is positive and the barrel connector is negative. With the seat heater on high, there should be 12VDC. With the seat heater on low, there should be 6VDC.

The seat heater is 30W and designed to be used in all weather conditions. If the seat heater is too hot for your application, trim the length of the heater one inch at a time. This will drop the wattage of the heater overall. Please note that you can only trim the edge opposite the wire exit. Do not cut between the two bus bars, as that will cause the heater to stop functioning.